Located within Rockbridge State Park, just south of Columbia in Boone County, Missouri lies the Devil’s Icebox. This name generally refers to a collapsed section, or sinkhole of this cave system. One of the largest caves in Missouri, there is an estimated seven miles of caverns, tunnels and sinkhole surface connections. The geologic features found here were carved of the same Burlington limestone that formed The Pinnacles found a few miles to the north. This is also one of the most biologically active and diverse cavern systems in Missouri, being home to two endangered species of bat and a very cool species of pink planaria (flat worm) that is found nowhere else on the planet! I’ve only had the pleasure of two brief visits to this location, but when water levels are low, like we have now, the underground streams and pools drop and allow for relatively easy access to exploring the caves. Apparently a good sized section is considered easy to explore and a couple of good headlamps are all that is required. A summertime visit is the perfect time of year to find out first hand why this place got its name. The temperature seemed to drop about 40 degrees F during our visit this past weekend. I can’t wait to get back here and explore some more!
Tag: missouri
What Would YOU Call a 680 Ton Rock?
Meet Dumbo, probably the largest of the free standing boulders to be found at Elephant Rocks. I’ve shared images of this beast before. You can see more photographs of Dumbo and it’s granite pachyderm brethren on my Elephant Rocks State Park Set on Flickr. I’ve recently started really trying to take my post-processing to the next level. I have come to believe that I can control what happens to the exposure inside the magic light-capture box almost as well as I could possibly want. I’m not saying I know every trick in the book, but I do not feel that I am missing too much. Post-processing on the ol’ computer (equivalent of working on prints in the wet dark room of yesterday), I realize I can use some improvements and practice. So, recently I adopted some new software and set out to better improve my workflow and learn some new tricks on the other side of the negative. I am NOT saying I want to become a Photoshop/graphic artist, but just desire to be able to control aspects of the file that will allow me to create a final image that best represents my concept of the scene when I hit the shutter release.
What am I getting at and just what does it have to do with this image? One of the possible adjustments that can be found in the latest versions of Adobe software products is the ability to correct for geometric lens distortion. This is a very cool correction device that allows issues of wide angle (barrel) and telephoto (pin cushion) distortions, usually seen in at least some respect in any zoom lens, to be easily corrected for in the computer. Depending on the subject, barrel distortion can be particularly troublesome. In this photo of Dumbo, I proudly went to ACR’s lens correction tab and hit the go button and looked at the results of the default setting. All of a sudden the cool, slightly exaggerated perspective of Dumbo was gone. The image became pretty boring, to be honest. This was a good lessen for me for a couple of reasons. First, just as nature photographers might use changes in color-cast, manipulations of tonal range, or cropping unwanted portions of an image, we can also use (or remove) perspective changes from lens distortions to make our desired image. Second, any of these lens corrections made (vignetting, chromatic aberration, and especially geometric distortion) can and will cause degradation to the quality of the final image. We must carefully decide what corrections are necessary and use the sliders to make the minimum needed adjustments. Do not blindly accept the defaults given by the software. I have not been able to find much to read on this specific topic and I am still learning as I get more practice.
“Dumbo”
Technical details: Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera, EF17-40mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 17mm, ISO 160, f/13, 1/30 sec
The Sandhill Crane
This stained adult Sandhill Crane is currently visiting some soy fields near St. Louis.
“Our ability to perceive quality in nature begins, as in art, with the pretty. It expands through successive stages of the beautiful to values as yet uncaptured by language. The quality of cranes lies, I think, in this higher gamut, as yet beyond the reach of words.”
-Aldo Leopold
“A Sand County Almanac And Sketches Here and There”
“Stained Adult Sandhill Crane”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/500 sec
The Fabulous Water Mills of Jim Lalumondiere
Several weeks back Sarah and I jumped in the N.E.V. and decided to go put a few more Missouri Ozark water mills on our list. Armed with a copy George Suggs’ “Water Mills of the Missouri Ozarks”, we decided to go after a few that were closer to home. The first on the list for the day was the Byrnesville Mill. After doing some location scouting on Google and Google Maps, I decided to just tell the GPS to take us to the town of Byrnesville, then I would go from there. Of all the cool things, the GPS led us directly to the mill! If only all my destinations were this easy. We pulled into a large drive and I realized quickly we were on private property, with cool farm, pioneer and ruin type structures all around us. Looking around I see a white-haired gentlemen coming out of one of the buildings. We strike up a conversation and I let him know what we are looking for. He goes on to tell us some fascinating stories about the buildings and particularly the Byrnesville Mill. 
“Byrnesville Mill, June 2012”
Technical details: Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 35mm, ISO 100, f/14, 1/13 sec
Jim had bought this mill in 1976 and converted it into a home where he raised a family. I couldn’t think of a better place to grow up! This was one of a dozen or more mills along a rather short stretch of the Big River. Elaborate dams, like the one pictured above, and other containment structures were built with most of these mills in order to efficiently harness the water’s power. The Big River is a remarkable waterway for Smallmouth Bass fishing and apparently it doesn’t get much better than right outside Jim’s back door. Talk about envy! Jim was most gracious and let us walk about the property, including his own personal bridge that the railways used to cross the Big River. The image below shows some of the fascinating objects one can find by exploring the property.
“Mill & Stone Ruins”
Technical details: Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 47mm, ISO 100, f/13, 0.8 sec
Further conversation with Jim led to the discovery that he also owned the nearby Cedar Hill Mill, which we had planned on visiting as well. Jim had purchased this mill in 1982 with plans on using it to generate and sell electricity. This plan did not work out and he has been doing a pretty good job of maintaining it since. They are currently brainstorming ways that the structure could be used for business.
“Cedar Hill Mill, IR, June-2012”
Technical details: Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 82mm, ISO 640, f/10, 120 sec
I told Jim about the boom in micro/craft beers and brewery/restaurant style establishments in St. Louis during the past several years. This building is four stories with part of a river running through it. Would this not be the perfect place for a little micro brewery and pub!?!?
“Cedar Hill Mill Workings I”
Technical details: Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera, EF17-40mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 23mm, ISO 400, f/10, Photomatix-HDR blend of 8-images
Seriously, just relocate the several thousand mud-daubers and the swallows, but leave everything else as is. I’ll even name the first brew: Cedar Hill Mill IPA. Easy.
It is interesting to read and hear about the changes that went through the life cycle of these water mills as diesel and electricity became much more efficient sources of power. This mill, built in 1876, was first built to mill grain for human consumption. Jim told me it was also used to mill grain for the pet-food trade and the energy captured was also utilized in the production of ice.
“Cedar Hill Mill Workings II”
Technical details: Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera, EF17-40mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 21mm, ISO 320, f/8, Photomatix-HDR blend of 7-images
“Cedar Hill Mill & Big River Dam, IR, June-2012”
Technical details: Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 32mm, ISO 640, f/10, 90 sec
The majority of the water mill structures along this popular stretch of the Big River have fallen to time and ages. Likewise many of the dams have been breached as can be seen in the above picture. This was a popular spot on this Sunday afternoon as dozens of people swarm to this spot to swim and fish. Just as Jim allowed us access inside his mill to take photos, it comes as no surprise he allows his neighbors to use the dam and the river along his property. With the magic of long-exposure photography, you can see no signs of the several people who were moving along the dam when this image was taken.
Even though Sarah and I could not find a great place for a meal (always a goal of mine during travels) during this trip, meeting Jim and taking some images I’m somewhat happy with was a great way to spend the day. I can’t wait to visit Jim again, give him a print or two as thanks for allowing us to explore his properties and hopefully make some more memories.
My Country ‘Tis of Thee
Part of my Missouri Ozarks grist mill series, this image shows the Dillard Mill in late afternoon light, watching over the Huzzah Creek as the small river works it’s way through a series of man-made impoundments. There has been a mill structure on this location since 1853, the current building was completed in 1908. This was the last stop of the day in a day trip Sarah and I took this spring. Although warm, the setting was perfect. The quaint, old, warm structure set against last years hay bales in the field immediately behind, the contrasts in water as it rushed down rocky barricades, stopping in motionless, clear ponds, and the chatter of birds like the Belted Kingfisher made us hate to get back into the car and take the drive back to the city.
Technical details: Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 32mm, ISO 100, f/14, manual blend of three exposures
Summer at the Confluence
This weekend I spent both mornings at Riverlands Migratory Bird Sanctuary, arriving near dawn and walking around the trails for a few hours before the extreme heat of the day took over. Sarah got up early and came with me this morning. Saturday morning I was fortunate to spot this guy feasting on carcases of fish that succumbed to the poorly oxygenated waters of the shrinking, heated pools of the wetlands. This was my first opportunity at shooting a raccoon. Even at such an early morning hour, the back-light serves to give a sense of the heat and humidity that were already noticeable.
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 640, f/5.6, 1/400 sec
One of the photographic challenges of this location is trying to get shots of the song birds that live among the tall grasses. They usually stay pretty far from the trails and are usually hidden low in the vegetation. This Common Yellowthroat Warbler was close enough and partially obscured by the grasses.
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 640, f/5.6, 1/1250 sec
One of the pleasure one can get from a summertime visit to RMBS is watching the Least Tern. I love watching these guys fish. This one is beginning the plunge into the water off of Ellis Island to grab a little fish.
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 250, f/5.6, 1/1600 sec
Kudos to Sarah, who took a closer look at these guys. What looked like a bunch of tadpoles gulping at the surface of one of these rapidly vanishing pools was actually a nice-sized school of small catfish. If rains do not come soon, these guys have no chance.
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 800, f/5.6, 1/400 sec
Sarah also spotted this thistle in early bloom and asked that I take its picture. I haven’t done a lot of macro style shooting with the 400mm, but I know that using the super tele’s to do this can work magic. The focus isn’t perfect, but I was actually fighting the minimum focus distance. I need to try this with dragonflies and other large insects.
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 800, f/5.6, 1/400 sec
This morning there was actually a bit of cloud cover over the sun. I decided to try a little panning blur and thought this was an apt image to go along with the record breaking heat we’ve been experiencing. Stay cool everyone. I am sure looking forward to all the time I’ll have to spend in the greenhouse this week. ;=)
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 100, f/14, 1/125 sec
Location Spotlight: The Canyon-land of Ferns and Waters – Hickory Canyons Natural Area
Today’s post spotlights a few images I took recently at the least well-known, but perhaps my favorite, of the Ste. Genevieve trio gem locations found in south-eastern Missouri, Hickory Canyons Natural Area. The other two nearby locations are Hawn State Park and Pickle Springs Natural Area. Much of the exposed rock in this area is known as LaMotte sandstone and was deposited around 500 million years ago under the Paleozoic sea, which covered this region except the igneous knobs of what are now called the St. Francois Mountains. Unlike the other sedimentary rocks – like dolomite and limestone that compose much of the Ozarks, sandstones are generally much more resistant to erosion. This results in rock features that are often quite spectacular to the eye and the canyons, bluffs and other exposed sandstone bedrock have become favorites for hikers, rock climbers and other travelers to this region.
“Addressing the Optimates”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 89mm, ISO 320, f/20, 0.4 sec
Two short hikes are available at Hickory Canyons N.A. Both offer great views of the rock formations, including wet-weather waterfalls like the one shown below.
“The Bath House”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 70mm, ISO 320, f/16, 1.3 sec
The overhangs and cracks created in these box canyons, gorges and cascades provide opportunities for ferns, mosses and lichens. In fact, these three spots mentioned above in Ste Genevieve Co are the only place the fern enthusiast need travel to in Missouri. The well-draining, sandy and acidic soils found here are perfect for species like wild-rose azalea, hay fern and rattlesnake orchid. White oak, hickories, sugar maples, short-leaf pine and flowering dogwood are the primary tree species found at this location. A few trips during spring time are definitely worth it to find some of these fantastic plants in bloom set against these dripping canyons and ephemeral cascades and waterfalls. The wild-rose azaleas bloomed about six weeks early this spring and I missed them. Oh well, something to look forward to next year.
“The Senate”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 28mm, ISO 160, f/16, 2.5 sec
“Floralia”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 93mm, ISO 250, f/16, 1 sec
“Virere Candere”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 24mm, ISO 160, f/16, 1.6 sec
“Arboris Relictus”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM lens, ISO 160, f/16, 0.5 sec
As the glaciers of the last major ice age retreated, species that required lower temps and had higher water requirements moved back north as well. These canyons provide cooler and wetter environments for relict species like the one pictured above, the partridge berry. This evergreen vine-like tiny shrub can be found throughout the canyon and hollow floors along with lichens and mosses.
Location Spotlight: Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge
“Traditional Boundaries”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 400, f/10, 1/1250 sec
I’m finally taking a few of the images I made during my first visit to Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge last autumn and putting them into a blog post. Living within miles of the Mississippi River Flyway – an ancestral route many migratory birds follow in their north-south seasonal movements – I have all sorts of options in visiting well-managed wetland areas to watch and photograph waterfowl. Of all these locations none has the opportunities for getting great looks at numbers and diversity of bird species that can be found at Squaw Creek NWR, located near Mound City in north-western Missouri, not too far from the Nebraska Border.
“Cacophonic”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 1600, f/5.6, 1/125 sec
The big stars at Squaw Creek around Thanksgiving and surrounding weeks are the Snow Geese. For years I had read about and seen images of the more than one million birds that pass through this location every fall. At peak times more than 500,000 birds can be counted on the reserve at one time. I had images in mind that I hoped to make if I could find the birds present in these kinds of numbers. I really had little clue of where and when I needed to be set up and if I had the ammunition (lenses) to make the images I had in mind. I feel the photos I was able to get are of mixed success due to several reasons. I was quite lucky in the numbers of birds that showed up. A week before my visit the counts were only a little more than 10,000. The day I arrived the latest weekly count suggested there were more than 250,000 on the reserve. This is shy of the 500-600K that can be found during peek times, but for my first visit, it was quite a treat! Of the 1.5 days I had to spend here, one full day was very cloudy and dark, making bird photography particularly troublesome. Around noon on my last day the sky cleared and I was able to get some nice light. Hopefully I can spend a few days more during my next visit.
“Let My Army Be The Rocks And The Trees And The Birds In The Sky”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 400, f/8, 1/1250 sec
Snow Geese are not the only waterfowl that can be found in good numbers here. In almost every one of these types of images Greater White-fronted Geese, Green-winged Teal, Northern Pintail, Mallards and more can be found as well.
“The Snow & the Mist”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 1600, f/8, 1/100 sec
Squaw Creek NWR and its 7500 acres was established in 1935 just in time. Close to 98% of the original marshes and related wetlands that border the Missouri River in the state of Missouri have been destroyed or permanently altered – mostly for use as farmland. Thankfully sportsmen realized the importance for providing habitat for migrating and over-wintering waterfowl and a series of these man-made marshes were built near Kansas City, Columbia and St. Louis. This image is actually a composite of two separate photographs – the foreground and the background, both taken in extremely cloudy and grey conditions. I was surprised by how well this blending worked and I feel it represents what it was like on this first day, the geese constantly taking off in large groups and others taking their place in the marshes. 
“Squaw Creek Eagle”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 800, f/5.6, 1/400 sec
Waterfowl are not the only birds or wildlife that utilize the reserve. Although you can see more Bald Eagles in spots along the Mississippi River, I have never been able to get as close to these birds perched as I did during this visit. This is true with the wildlife in general. The auto-route roads were set perfectly in the reserve, in my opinion. Getting close enough to the wildlife can be troublesome from the roads at other places I visit, but here the roads are much better situated near the pools and the wildlife never seem to be overly stressed. During the time of my visit with cloudy weather and poor light, I was able to get closer to several duck species than I have ever been able to before. 
“White Ibis”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/640 sec
This White Ibis was actually a very late bird for this part of Missouri and it made a bit of noise in the MO birding community. This was also one of my best looks at this species. I had found it the day before and took some rather poor photos. I was happy to see it still in the same pool the next day when light was better. 
“Snow Geese on Loess”
Technical details: Canon EOS 50D camera, EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 150mm, ISO 100, f/10, 1/200 sec
This image is probably my favorite from this trip. To me, it really captures the essence of the place and I believe this is what this area looked like when Lewis and Clark first laid eyes to this part of the country. The bluffs in the background are known as loess hills and are formed by the actions of glaciers. Along with draining the natural wetland habitats along the Big Muddy, European settlers also got busy destroying many of the impressive loess hills, using the fertile soil for numerous development and farming projects. Many of these features are still being harvested and destroyed to this day.
There are several more nationally well-known reserves like this throughout the country that scores of photographers, nature lovers, biologists and sportsmen flock to every year. I can’t imagine a spot being more suited for these activities than Squaw Creek NWR. I hope to make an annual pilgrimage to this location on Thanksgiving week.
If you make the visit and are looking for a nice place to eat, I highly recommend “Klub”. This is a great place to enjoy a late dinner after spending the day at the reserve, which is only about ten minutes away. They have a great menu using a lot of fresh, local ingredients. I ate here twice during my visit and I was quite surprised to find such a quality establishment in such a little town like Mound City.
Thanks for paying a visit. You can find more photographs taken from this location by visiting my Squaw Creek Flickr Set
Promise of a New Day
“Dawn at Shaw Nature Reserve”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 92mm, ISO 160, f/18, 1/13 sec
First of all, I hope the title of this post doesn’t give too much away about my love for everything Paula Abdul. ;=) My hope for this post is to present the possibilities of experiences that Shaw Nature Reserve offers the nature lover, hiker, birder, artist, or anyone trying to escape the confines of modern culture and everyday life. SNR is located in Gray Summit, MO, about 30 minutes outside the St. Louis metropolitan area. It is an easy to get to spot to find yourself in a well-managed and diverse range of native Ozark habitats.
I love spending the early morning hours at SNR. I have spent many a Saturday morning, having arrived before first light, with the entire reserve to myself. I try to have a plan for those ephemeral golden hours where I can pretend I am the only person on the planet: macro photography of wildflowers, a hawk’s nest, a particular landscape image, etc. More often than not the weather or light or my desire to put some miles on the trails forces me to forget my plans and try to take advantage of the best available opportunity.
Everything in nature seems to be fully awake at dawn and just like the opportunities for the photographer the stimulus for the senses at dawn are almost infinite. During this morning the frogs were still advertising, song birds – Towhee, Field Sparrow, Carolina Wren, and Redwing Blackbird are singing their unique songs, the Barred Owls are talking to one another. The light and colors of early morning are constantly changing and the brisk temperatures and fog in the air are pleasant on the skin and a joy for hiking.
Being a little windy on this particular morning I knew that my goal of photographing spring wildflowers would be a bit frustrating. I also felt that need to walk so I started on the trails knowing there would be ample opportunities for some early morning landscapes. This section of this trail emerges from denser woods to a savannah-like habitat with a cattail pond. I tried several compositions and focal lengths and this one was one of my favorites with a Redwing Blackbird perched facing the sun.
So, please join the crowds and make a visit to Shaw after 10:00 in the morning. Maybe I’ll see you on my way out. ;=)
Location Spotlight: Black Mountain Cascades
This post features one of my favorite places to visit and photograph in my beloved St. Francois Mountains. Black Mountain and these cascades that tumble down more than 400 vertical feet in a series of steps lie southwest of Fredericktown and can be found literally alongside Highway E. The waters run under a drainage pipe in the road and travel another few yards before dumping into the St. Francois River. I was first turned on to this place by a fantastic landscape photographer of the Missouri Ozarks named Mark Karpinski. I highly suggest looking him up and buying a bunch of his photographs for your walls. His images are the best I’ve seen of this region.
“Rivers or Veins”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 12mm, ISO 200, f/13, 0.5 sec
As I mentioned in previous posts, this “winter” brought out possibilities for photography that I would normally be taking advantage of in the warmer months. These images were taken in early February following a couple of rainy days. These cascades run out completely in dry times, so you must carefully plan a visit following rainy periods.
“Roll of Ancient Thunder”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 10mm, ISO 160, f/13, 0.4 sec
Before you make plans for a visit, listen to warning. There are no trails here – it is just bush-whacking up the slopes. Sometimes you will need to go up leaf-littered hills and sometimes you must climb hand and foot over rocks and the cascades. There are all sorts of risks here. The rocks are extremely slippery. I highly suggest the use of felt-bottomed shoes or waders and take all precautions against water and your camera equipment. You will get wet! In the growing season I have been to few places with as much or worse concentrations of poison ivy. If you visit in mid to late summer, cover yourself head to toe and then burn your clothes afterwards. And ticks! In early February I hadn’t given a thought to ticks. This day I received a tick bite and found another three on my pants. I learned my lesson to pay attention to the temperature and not the calendar.
“Crash of Molars”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 20mm, ISO 200, f/11, 2 sec
I’ve been fortunate enough to have spent some great days on this mountain. I have visited on 50% chance of rain days and was able to spend a few hours of cloudy, but relatively rain free weather – perfect for this type of photography. If you are in shape and have the determination to make the hike to the top, the view of the St. Francis River valley below is sure worth it. Pack a picnic basket!
“Firing Diamonds At Boots”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 16mm, ISO 200, f/13, 0.6 sec
The titles of the images in this post I stole from the lyrics of a song called “Buried in Teeth” by Mariee Sioux. I can’s stop listening to this song or Mariee’s music in general lately. I realize this may be considered IP infringement, but I have trouble with titles and I also wanted to try and give her some props, so to speak.
“Swallowed Into the Gut of Centuries”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 11mm, ISO 200, f/16, 0.8 sec
Thanks for visiting the blog. You can find more of my photos from this location here. If you decide to make an excursion to this spot or anywhere else into the St. Francois Mountain region, please be careful, enjoy yourself, leave only footprints and take only photographs!






























