Part of my Missouri Ozarks grist mill series, this image shows the Dillard Mill in late afternoon light, watching over the Huzzah Creek as the small river works it’s way through a series of man-made impoundments. There has been a mill structure on this location since 1853, the current building was completed in 1908. This was the last stop of the day in a day trip Sarah and I took this spring. Although warm, the setting was perfect. The quaint, old, warm structure set against last years hay bales in the field immediately behind, the contrasts in water as it rushed down rocky barricades, stopping in motionless, clear ponds, and the chatter of birds like the Belted Kingfisher made us hate to get back into the car and take the drive back to the city.
Category: landscape
Dawn in the Garden
After a long hiatus from blogging, I decided to try this again. I was able to load this image with no problems. Hopefully this will continue and I can keep making posts.
This is probably my favorite image made during Sarah and my trip through the Shawnee region of southern Illinois this spring. Seeing some spectacular images online of this place, I couldn’t wait to get here. Garden of the Gods is located on the eastern side of the Shawnee, so this was our “final destination” as we progressed further from StL. And although we did see some nice spots, like Bell Smith Springs and Burden Falls, during this rather dry spring, GoG turned out to be the paramount stop.
We arrived with less than 30 minutes of light left during the first evening. We only saw a limited view of the exposed rocks and watched a pretty nice sunset, but had no real time for or notion of how to set up for a photograph. We drove back to the very nice cabin we had located near Eddyville, about a 30 minute drive from GoG, and stayed the night. I got up well before dawn and arrived back at GoG about a half hour before sun rise. Although I was not fortunate enough to be able to capture a spectacular sunset or sunrise during our brief visit, I was happy with the light presented the morning I made this image.
What I found fascinating is the apparent remoteness of this spot. Even though it is only about 30-45 minutes from some decent sized towns, this spot seemed more remote and “out of the way” than most spots I visit in the Ozarks. The morning I made this image I was alone except for one young man who seemed to be in his early twenties. I saw him in the parking lot with nothing but the clothes on his back. There were no other vehicles and he was pacing around acting oddly. I wondered if I should ask him if he needed some assistance or a ride, but something about him was weird. He didn’t seem to acknowledge me, so I didn’t confront him. I’m not sure if I did the right thing or not. I watched him lay down on a bench as I drove away.
As I believed I mentioned before, the one nice thing I learned was how close many of these spots in the Shawnee are to StL. GoG is only about 2.5 hours from our front door. For some reason I expected these spots to be a longer drive. I’m definitely excited to make some more visits to these spots and keep tracking that sweet light.
“Dawn In The Garden”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 24mm, ISO 160, f/13, manual blend of three exposures
Location Spotlight: The Canyon-land of Ferns and Waters – Hickory Canyons Natural Area
Today’s post spotlights a few images I took recently at the least well-known, but perhaps my favorite, of the Ste. Genevieve trio gem locations found in south-eastern Missouri, Hickory Canyons Natural Area. The other two nearby locations are Hawn State Park and Pickle Springs Natural Area. Much of the exposed rock in this area is known as LaMotte sandstone and was deposited around 500 million years ago under the Paleozoic sea, which covered this region except the igneous knobs of what are now called the St. Francois Mountains. Unlike the other sedimentary rocks – like dolomite and limestone that compose much of the Ozarks, sandstones are generally much more resistant to erosion. This results in rock features that are often quite spectacular to the eye and the canyons, bluffs and other exposed sandstone bedrock have become favorites for hikers, rock climbers and other travelers to this region.
“Addressing the Optimates”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 89mm, ISO 320, f/20, 0.4 sec
Two short hikes are available at Hickory Canyons N.A. Both offer great views of the rock formations, including wet-weather waterfalls like the one shown below.
“The Bath House”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 70mm, ISO 320, f/16, 1.3 sec
The overhangs and cracks created in these box canyons, gorges and cascades provide opportunities for ferns, mosses and lichens. In fact, these three spots mentioned above in Ste Genevieve Co are the only place the fern enthusiast need travel to in Missouri. The well-draining, sandy and acidic soils found here are perfect for species like wild-rose azalea, hay fern and rattlesnake orchid. White oak, hickories, sugar maples, short-leaf pine and flowering dogwood are the primary tree species found at this location. A few trips during spring time are definitely worth it to find some of these fantastic plants in bloom set against these dripping canyons and ephemeral cascades and waterfalls. The wild-rose azaleas bloomed about six weeks early this spring and I missed them. Oh well, something to look forward to next year.
“The Senate”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 28mm, ISO 160, f/16, 2.5 sec
“Floralia”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 93mm, ISO 250, f/16, 1 sec
“Virere Candere”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 24mm, ISO 160, f/16, 1.6 sec
“Arboris Relictus”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM lens, ISO 160, f/16, 0.5 sec
As the glaciers of the last major ice age retreated, species that required lower temps and had higher water requirements moved back north as well. These canyons provide cooler and wetter environments for relict species like the one pictured above, the partridge berry. This evergreen vine-like tiny shrub can be found throughout the canyon and hollow floors along with lichens and mosses.
Location Spotlight: Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge
“Traditional Boundaries”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 400, f/10, 1/1250 sec
I’m finally taking a few of the images I made during my first visit to Squaw Creek National Wildlife Refuge last autumn and putting them into a blog post. Living within miles of the Mississippi River Flyway – an ancestral route many migratory birds follow in their north-south seasonal movements – I have all sorts of options in visiting well-managed wetland areas to watch and photograph waterfowl. Of all these locations none has the opportunities for getting great looks at numbers and diversity of bird species that can be found at Squaw Creek NWR, located near Mound City in north-western Missouri, not too far from the Nebraska Border.
“Cacophonic”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 1600, f/5.6, 1/125 sec
The big stars at Squaw Creek around Thanksgiving and surrounding weeks are the Snow Geese. For years I had read about and seen images of the more than one million birds that pass through this location every fall. At peak times more than 500,000 birds can be counted on the reserve at one time. I had images in mind that I hoped to make if I could find the birds present in these kinds of numbers. I really had little clue of where and when I needed to be set up and if I had the ammunition (lenses) to make the images I had in mind. I feel the photos I was able to get are of mixed success due to several reasons. I was quite lucky in the numbers of birds that showed up. A week before my visit the counts were only a little more than 10,000. The day I arrived the latest weekly count suggested there were more than 250,000 on the reserve. This is shy of the 500-600K that can be found during peek times, but for my first visit, it was quite a treat! Of the 1.5 days I had to spend here, one full day was very cloudy and dark, making bird photography particularly troublesome. Around noon on my last day the sky cleared and I was able to get some nice light. Hopefully I can spend a few days more during my next visit.
“Let My Army Be The Rocks And The Trees And The Birds In The Sky”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 400, f/8, 1/1250 sec
Snow Geese are not the only waterfowl that can be found in good numbers here. In almost every one of these types of images Greater White-fronted Geese, Green-winged Teal, Northern Pintail, Mallards and more can be found as well.
“The Snow & the Mist”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 1600, f/8, 1/100 sec
Squaw Creek NWR and its 7500 acres was established in 1935 just in time. Close to 98% of the original marshes and related wetlands that border the Missouri River in the state of Missouri have been destroyed or permanently altered – mostly for use as farmland. Thankfully sportsmen realized the importance for providing habitat for migrating and over-wintering waterfowl and a series of these man-made marshes were built near Kansas City, Columbia and St. Louis. This image is actually a composite of two separate photographs – the foreground and the background, both taken in extremely cloudy and grey conditions. I was surprised by how well this blending worked and I feel it represents what it was like on this first day, the geese constantly taking off in large groups and others taking their place in the marshes. 
“Squaw Creek Eagle”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 800, f/5.6, 1/400 sec
Waterfowl are not the only birds or wildlife that utilize the reserve. Although you can see more Bald Eagles in spots along the Mississippi River, I have never been able to get as close to these birds perched as I did during this visit. This is true with the wildlife in general. The auto-route roads were set perfectly in the reserve, in my opinion. Getting close enough to the wildlife can be troublesome from the roads at other places I visit, but here the roads are much better situated near the pools and the wildlife never seem to be overly stressed. During the time of my visit with cloudy weather and poor light, I was able to get closer to several duck species than I have ever been able to before. 
“White Ibis”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF400mm f/5.6L USM lens, ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/640 sec
This White Ibis was actually a very late bird for this part of Missouri and it made a bit of noise in the MO birding community. This was also one of my best looks at this species. I had found it the day before and took some rather poor photos. I was happy to see it still in the same pool the next day when light was better. 
“Snow Geese on Loess”
Technical details: Canon EOS 50D camera, EF70-200mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 150mm, ISO 100, f/10, 1/200 sec
This image is probably my favorite from this trip. To me, it really captures the essence of the place and I believe this is what this area looked like when Lewis and Clark first laid eyes to this part of the country. The bluffs in the background are known as loess hills and are formed by the actions of glaciers. Along with draining the natural wetland habitats along the Big Muddy, European settlers also got busy destroying many of the impressive loess hills, using the fertile soil for numerous development and farming projects. Many of these features are still being harvested and destroyed to this day.
There are several more nationally well-known reserves like this throughout the country that scores of photographers, nature lovers, biologists and sportsmen flock to every year. I can’t imagine a spot being more suited for these activities than Squaw Creek NWR. I hope to make an annual pilgrimage to this location on Thanksgiving week.
If you make the visit and are looking for a nice place to eat, I highly recommend “Klub”. This is a great place to enjoy a late dinner after spending the day at the reserve, which is only about ten minutes away. They have a great menu using a lot of fresh, local ingredients. I ate here twice during my visit and I was quite surprised to find such a quality establishment in such a little town like Mound City.
Thanks for paying a visit. You can find more photographs taken from this location by visiting my Squaw Creek Flickr Set
Promise of a New Day
“Dawn at Shaw Nature Reserve”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 92mm, ISO 160, f/18, 1/13 sec
First of all, I hope the title of this post doesn’t give too much away about my love for everything Paula Abdul. ;=) My hope for this post is to present the possibilities of experiences that Shaw Nature Reserve offers the nature lover, hiker, birder, artist, or anyone trying to escape the confines of modern culture and everyday life. SNR is located in Gray Summit, MO, about 30 minutes outside the St. Louis metropolitan area. It is an easy to get to spot to find yourself in a well-managed and diverse range of native Ozark habitats.
I love spending the early morning hours at SNR. I have spent many a Saturday morning, having arrived before first light, with the entire reserve to myself. I try to have a plan for those ephemeral golden hours where I can pretend I am the only person on the planet: macro photography of wildflowers, a hawk’s nest, a particular landscape image, etc. More often than not the weather or light or my desire to put some miles on the trails forces me to forget my plans and try to take advantage of the best available opportunity.
Everything in nature seems to be fully awake at dawn and just like the opportunities for the photographer the stimulus for the senses at dawn are almost infinite. During this morning the frogs were still advertising, song birds – Towhee, Field Sparrow, Carolina Wren, and Redwing Blackbird are singing their unique songs, the Barred Owls are talking to one another. The light and colors of early morning are constantly changing and the brisk temperatures and fog in the air are pleasant on the skin and a joy for hiking.
Being a little windy on this particular morning I knew that my goal of photographing spring wildflowers would be a bit frustrating. I also felt that need to walk so I started on the trails knowing there would be ample opportunities for some early morning landscapes. This section of this trail emerges from denser woods to a savannah-like habitat with a cattail pond. I tried several compositions and focal lengths and this one was one of my favorites with a Redwing Blackbird perched facing the sun.
So, please join the crowds and make a visit to Shaw after 10:00 in the morning. Maybe I’ll see you on my way out. ;=)
Location Spotlight: Black Mountain Cascades
This post features one of my favorite places to visit and photograph in my beloved St. Francois Mountains. Black Mountain and these cascades that tumble down more than 400 vertical feet in a series of steps lie southwest of Fredericktown and can be found literally alongside Highway E. The waters run under a drainage pipe in the road and travel another few yards before dumping into the St. Francois River. I was first turned on to this place by a fantastic landscape photographer of the Missouri Ozarks named Mark Karpinski. I highly suggest looking him up and buying a bunch of his photographs for your walls. His images are the best I’ve seen of this region.
“Rivers or Veins”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 12mm, ISO 200, f/13, 0.5 sec
As I mentioned in previous posts, this “winter” brought out possibilities for photography that I would normally be taking advantage of in the warmer months. These images were taken in early February following a couple of rainy days. These cascades run out completely in dry times, so you must carefully plan a visit following rainy periods.
“Roll of Ancient Thunder”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 10mm, ISO 160, f/13, 0.4 sec
Before you make plans for a visit, listen to warning. There are no trails here – it is just bush-whacking up the slopes. Sometimes you will need to go up leaf-littered hills and sometimes you must climb hand and foot over rocks and the cascades. There are all sorts of risks here. The rocks are extremely slippery. I highly suggest the use of felt-bottomed shoes or waders and take all precautions against water and your camera equipment. You will get wet! In the growing season I have been to few places with as much or worse concentrations of poison ivy. If you visit in mid to late summer, cover yourself head to toe and then burn your clothes afterwards. And ticks! In early February I hadn’t given a thought to ticks. This day I received a tick bite and found another three on my pants. I learned my lesson to pay attention to the temperature and not the calendar.
“Crash of Molars”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 20mm, ISO 200, f/11, 2 sec
I’ve been fortunate enough to have spent some great days on this mountain. I have visited on 50% chance of rain days and was able to spend a few hours of cloudy, but relatively rain free weather – perfect for this type of photography. If you are in shape and have the determination to make the hike to the top, the view of the St. Francis River valley below is sure worth it. Pack a picnic basket!
“Firing Diamonds At Boots”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 16mm, ISO 200, f/13, 0.6 sec
The titles of the images in this post I stole from the lyrics of a song called “Buried in Teeth” by Mariee Sioux. I can’s stop listening to this song or Mariee’s music in general lately. I realize this may be considered IP infringement, but I have trouble with titles and I also wanted to try and give her some props, so to speak.
“Swallowed Into the Gut of Centuries”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 11mm, ISO 200, f/16, 0.8 sec
Thanks for visiting the blog. You can find more of my photos from this location here. If you decide to make an excursion to this spot or anywhere else into the St. Francois Mountain region, please be careful, enjoy yourself, leave only footprints and take only photographs!
Seven Days of Mina Sauk Falls – Day Seven
“Taum Sauk Eternal”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 40mm, ISO 200, f/14, 0.6 sec
Hi everyone. Here is the last in my planned succession of image postings of Mina Sauk Falls of the Missouri Ozarks. This photograph may be my favorite of the day. The textures of the rock and the patterns of the lichen suggested to me that this would make a nice black and white. I added a light Orton effect to enhance these contrasts and bring out the highlights a bit more. The pool of water might be my favorite aspect of the image.
I had another great Saturday exploring and photographing in the Ozarks. We really had some magnificent lightning displays from thunderstorms that went through the region in the afternoon. I hope none of you had any damage or other worries from these storms. I started my day with an actual plan and had to make changes due to the weather. I started my day in the Labarque Creek Watershed, thinking the storms we had on Thursday may have filled the drainage creeks and there would potentially be lots of falls, cascades and other water features to shoot. I also realized that the spring ephemeral wild flowers would be really getting going. Well, the water flow was next to nothing. The rain from early in the week had either drained quickly or was not enough to get things flowing. The spring ephemerals were exactly what I expected. Spring beauty, rue anemone, Dutchman’s breeches, hounds tooth and blood root were all present in the thousands. I wish I had actually spent more time shooting these, but I had other plans as well.
My plan after Labarque was to head to the nearby Shaw Nature Reserve to photograph the early happenings of the Red-shouldered Hawk nest located there. I hauled all my photo equipment and my spotting scope and my chair and snacks, set up, had an opportunity to take a few shots when the rains came in. So, I packed up and started back home. I knew the weather would also interfere with my plan to photograph a local Great-horned Owl nest that I was planning on visiting in the late afternoon and evening. I went back home, ate dinner and checked weather.com. There looked to be a gap between 5:00PM and 7:00PM where the chance of rain was significantly lower. I suspected that the 0.5-1″ or so of rain we received this afternoon may be enough to really get the ephemeral drainage creeks of Labarque flowing. So, I packed up and headed back to Eureka, knowing it still might rain for another few hours and I may not even get out of the car. When I arrived, it was barely sprinkling so I put my rain gear on and covered my camera pack with its rain cover and with my hiking pole and trusty Tilley to keep my head dry, I started on the trail – anxious about the weather and quickly cover the mile or so to the features I most hoped would be filled with water. The situation was not perfect. It rained about half the time I was on the hike. I was able to pull the camera out and do some shooting, but the light was very low, even for shooting moving water! In a couple of brief deluges I carried myself and my gear to a small cave to wait it out. This was one of the most memorable hikes of my life. The light, sky, fog water and life all around me seemed to be changing by the minute. At least half a dozen frog species were singing and the Eastern Towhees were constantly telling me to “Drink your Tee!”. I heard the ever-vocal Red-shouldered Hawks and the hoots of Barred and Great-horned Owls.
Finally, when the light was so low I couldn’t get anything shorter than a 30 second exposure, I headed back to the car. Upon reaching the top of one of the steep ridges I saw a spectacular display of warm colors as the sun was able to break through a bit near the horizon and juxtapose itself with the cumulonimbus clouds and associated displays of lightning.
I apologize if this is boring any readers, but I am using this blog as a journal in as much as anything else. I haven’t really looked at any of the photos I took today. Hopefully the images will be close to what I hope they can be. If not, I will always be looking forward to the next hike in the Missouri Ozarks.
Seven Days of Mina Sauk Falls – Day Six
“Warm Flow”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 24mm, ISO 160, f/11, 1/4 sec
Near the top of Taum Sauk these cascades were very appealing but somewhat difficult to shoot as the sun began to creep in. Ice covering the rocks was still an issue and I carefully moved along a ledge to get close to this pretty little slide. Being able to rest a bit in the sunshine and eat some cocoa-covered almonds and have some coffee while listening to the falls was great after spending the previous hour or two on the shadow side of the mountain in the cold and mist.
Seven Days of Mina Sauk Falls – Day Five
“Frigid Mina”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens @ 11mm, ISO 250, f/14, 0.4 sec
Here we have one of the mid-tier drops of Mina Sauk. This one falls about 20 feet and on this morning the temperature was just cold enough to freeze the mist of the falls on whatever it landed upon. It was a real challenge keeping the front of the lens free of freezing drops. The icy rock surfaces were also quite a challenge of foot near any of the falls. I really grew to appreciate the different colors and tones in the rocks here during this trip. With no greenery of warmer months or warm colors of autumn the purples, pinks and various other hues that these granites and their lichen passengers exhibit was something to focus on.
Seven Days of Mina Sauk Falls – Day Four
“Spanning Time”
Technical details: Canon EOS 7D camera, EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM lens @ 24mm, ISO 200, f/10, 1/4 sec
So how did Mina Sauk and her father mountain, Taum Sauk, get their names? I am currently looking for an original and direct source for the telling of the legend of Mina Sauk. Here are a few paragraphs collected from the web that were originally published by the Kansas City Star:
The Legend of Taum Sauk Mountain ~ A Native American “Romeo and Juliet” story as told to John Russell, from the Kansas City Star, by “Old Uncle Jim Connelly” back in 1953, the summer after the park became accessible by automobile to the public. Uncle Jim, an ex-railroad worker, who for many years ran a service station and tourist court from his home near Ironton, knew a host of stories and Indian legends tied up with the mountain.
“Uncle Jim’s favorite story probably is one about Taum Sauk, the Piankashaw Indian chieftain after whom the mountain is named, and his daughter, Mina Sauk, for whom the beautiful waterfall on the northwestern slope of the mountain is named.
“Long before the white man came here,” Uncle Jim relates, “this land of flowers, now called the Arcadia Valley, was the hunting grounds of the Piankashaw Indians. The Piankashaws had a famous chieftain, Sauk-Ton-Qua. Because the name was hard for the white man to pronounce, he was later call Taum Sauk.”
“Taum Sauk was wise and although the Piankashaws were not as large a tribe as the Cherokees or Osages, he was able to hold his territory against their invasions. The Piankashaws lived in comparative peace in and around the Arcadia Valley, where they hunted and fished and raised a little corn in the summertime. In the winter they would move to the limestone bluff shelters along the Mississippi river and stay there until warm weather.”
“Taum Sauk’s beautiful daughter, Mina Sauk, was greatly desired by all the young warriors in the tribe. However, Mina Sauk met a young Osage warrior in the woods and lost her heart to him.”
“For a long time he wooed her secretly, but one day she was discovered in the arms of the young Osage. The young warrior was captured and taken before the chieftain. He was tried and condemned to death.”
“He was executed on the slopes of Taum Sauk Mountain, where a great porphyry outcrop form an escarpment overlooking Taum Sauk creek and facing Wildcat mountain. The young warrior was tossed from the parapet down a succession of benches on the mountainside, thrown from bench to bench with the spears of warriors. He fell bleeding and dying in the valley below.”
“The grief-stricken maiden was restrained by the tribal women from interfering with the execution. But at the fatal moment, she broke loose from her captors and threw herself to death on the same benches.”
“The old Indian legend says that this displeased the great spirit, and that the earth trembled and shook, and the mountain cracked. Then a stream of water poured forth and flowed down the rock benches, washing away the blood.”
“The place is still known as the Mina Sauk falls and along the edges of the rivulet, even today, there grow little flowers with crimson blossoms which the Indians believed got their color from this ancient tragedy.”
-I really like this story and think it could be something special if it were fleshed out more fully. I find it hard to believe that someone like Longfellow never picked this one up and turned it into a classic. But, I guess this part of the country has never had too many literary classicists. Maybe Woodrell can pick this up and give it a modern Ozark face. Someone should suggest this to him.





















