Hunting Spring Leps in 2024

The fellas and I spent a few hours this spring hunting for a few butterflies in Phelps and Franklin Counties. We finally had some success locating the rare golden-banded skipper after numerous attempts over the past two or three seasons. We were hunting in the right place, but not in the exact right spot. Thanks to our friends who shared the location of their original find.

The Golden-banded Skipper (Telegonus cellus)

In order to find and identify the rare skipper butterflies (Hesperiidae), one must first find and take lots of photos of the more common species. There are so many skippers that look very similar to each other and even with taking photos, I found it to be a painful chore to come to the correct identification on many of these. Many thanks to CA Ivy from Butterflies and Moths of North America for helping me get the proper IDs on the following.

Little Glassy Wing (Pompeius verna)

Northern Cloudywing (Thorybes pylades)

Bell’s Roadside-Skipper (Amblyscirtes belli)

Delaware Skipper (Anatrytone logan)

Least Skipper (Ancyloxypha numitor)

Zabulon Skipper (Poanes zabulon)

We found other leps besides skippers, including quite a few of the Ozark Baltimore Checkerspot (Euphydryas phaeton ozarkae).

It was so nice to see something with these colors and patterns that wasn’t a dang Pearl Crescent. This one is the Silvery Checkerspot (Chlosyne nycteis).

I’ve struggled for years to get a photo of the Little Wood-Satyr (Megisto cymela). I finally found the trick to get them to stay put for a few seconds… 😉

Casey and I stumbled across this first for me – a gorgeous Tephra Tussock Moth (Dasychira tephra) caterpillar.

Not another lep, but we had a few of this fantastic species – the Saw-combed Fishfly (Nigronia serricornis) associated with a fen and creek we were searching in.

It has been suggested that we might be seeing a very good moth and butterfly season this year due to birds and other predators filing up and raising their young on the Brood XIX periodical cicadas. From my anecdotal experiences, this seems to be true. Hopefully I can find more caterpillars over the summer if this continues to be the case.

-OZB

The Roston Native Butterfly House

Early this month the WGNSS Nature Photography Group traveled to the southwest part of the state. Our primary destination, the Roston Native Butterfly House, is a real treasure that I never get tired of visiting.

Officially considered as an accidental species in Missouri, the Dianna fritillary (Speyeria diana) has a strong population in the mountains of northwest Arkansas.

The Roston Native Butterfly House was established to create a haven for local butterfly species and to educate the public about their ecological significance. Its history is rooted in conservation efforts and the desire to preserve native butterfly populations threatened by habitat loss and environmental changes.

This native butterfly house, located within the Springfield Botanical Garden, was created and named in honor of Dr. Bill Roston, an MD of the small town of Forsyth, MO who had an avid interest in conservation and pollinators. Today this lovely location is curated by Dr. Chris Barnhart and his wife Deborah.

Pictured above is a caterpillar of the silver-sided skipper (Epargyreus clarus).

The Barnharts and their staff of volunteers do an incredible job of rearing several native butterfly species and maintain a nice population of their required host plants within the house. The Barnharts welcome several thousand visitors each year and do an excellent job in educating the visitors on the life histories and conservation stories of the butterflies they raise. Chris and Deborah always eagerly support our small group visits and often go out of their way to help us get the photographs of the butterflies and caterpillars we are after.

The Roston Native Butterfly House is a great place to see many of the swallowtail species found in our region, like this newly emerged giant swallowtail (Papilio cresphontes).

Native to Florida, Cuba and the Bahamas, the Atala butterfly is an excellent example of a specialist. The Atala (Eumae atala) feed only on the coontie cycad (Zamia integrifolia). You might notice that this member of the Lycinidae (hairstreaks) family also shows aposematic coloration in both larval and adult forms. This is to warn predators of the neurotoxic secondary plant compound – cycasin, that they ingest from their cycad hosts and carry with them for their entire lives.

Related to the common hairstreak butterflies seen in our own backyards, the Atala butterfly is a tropical representative of this family native to Florida.

Nothing against the typical butterfly houses that tend to showcase tropical species from around the world, but I would sure like to see more strictly native butterfly houses like the Roston Native Butterfly House. As I hope my photographs show, not only are the natives spectacular, but showcasing them in this type of setting helps to educate its visitors on the species they might see in their own neighborhoods or while out on the trails.

Chrysalises of the various native butterflies can usually be observed when visiting the Roston Native Butterfly House in Springfield, MO.

A great big thank you to Chris and Deborah for always being gracious hosts. We are looking forward to more visits.

-OZB

WGNSS Hits the Glades

Back in early May of this year, a small group from the WGNSS Nature Photography Group headed out to visit some glades in Washington County, Missouri. Being a relatively wet and cool spring, we expected the glades to be lush and full of blooming wildflowers. These specialized blooming plants and their associated pollinators were our planned primary targets for this beautiful Saturday.

Unfortunately for us, the timing of our visit did not seem to be optimal. We found very few plants in bloom and even fewer interesting butterflies and skippers that we were hoping to find. However, I noticed something about this particular glade that Casey had steered us into. Looking around, I noticed that there was very little sign that foot traffic or rock tipping had occurred recently – something that plagues the more popular glades in Missouri.

Normally, I loathe the thought of rock-tipping – the process of lifting rocks in sunny natural areas in order to find reptiles, amphibians and arthropods. As I alluded to above, this activity can be highly over-practiced and is often accompanied by people harassing or collecting the animals found. In large and popular glades, the signs of rock tipping can be abundantly clear. Just look for large flat rocks that have obviously been moved and are no longer in close contact with their underlying soil substrate. In this case, because we were on the lookout for improvised subjects and the fact that this area has not seen much pressure from others, we decided to carefully tip a few to see what we might find.

Little did I know what a treat we were in for. With tipping over just a few stones, we were able to find close to 20 prairie ring-neck snakes (Diadophis punctatus arnyi), including one albino! The prairie ring-neck is a small, slender snake native to prairies and other grasslands in the central United States.

An albino prairie ring-neck snake (Diadophis punctatus arnyi)

These snakes can reach up to 14 inches in length, but seem much smaller due to their slender build. This species primarily feeds on small invertebrates such as earthworms, slugs, and insects, but may also consume small amphibians and other reptiles. The prairie ring-neck snake is considered an opisthoglyphous colubrid, meaning they possess small fangs in the rear of their mouths along with a very mild venom. They are completely harmless to humans as they will very rarely attempt to bite, relying instead on a foul-smelling musk that they emit along with exposing their orange and red warning colors on their undersides in order to dissuade predators. On rare reports of bites to humans, the reaction has been described as a mild discomfort or stinging sensation, akin to a nettle sting or a sting from a sweat bee.

A typically colored prairie ring-neck snake

Rock tipping can also yield a number of interesting invertebrates. Although we did not find any tarantulas or black widows that can be found in this manner, we did find Missouri’s only scorpion and a common centipede.

The striped bark scorpion (Centruroides vittatus)
The rock centipede (Lithobius forficatus)

When we were done with our subjects we made sure they all found their way back safely underneath their rock dwellings.

-OZB

Biological Pest Control

Today I am showcasing an example of biological pest control that I came across in my own neighborhood in late April of this year. The image below shows a bronzed cutworm moth larvae (Nephelodes minians) in the Family Noctuidae that has been parasitized by a Braconid wasp in the genus Cotesia. This is a very species-rich genus of parasitoids, but there is a fair chance of this species being C. marginiventris. Thanks very much to Alex Soohoo-Hui for his assistance in narrowing down the identification of this minute wasp.

A deceased bronzed cutworm (Nephelodes minians) caterpillar in the final stages of hosting its parasitoid Braconid brood.

The bronzed cutworm is a very common moth that feeds on various grasses, including crops like maize and other cereals as well as turf grasses. I consistently find these cats or their chrysalis whenever I dig a new hole in the yard.

When I found and collected these animals, the last couple of wasp larvae were finishing up spinning their cocoons.

After the wasp deposits her eggs on the host, the wasp larvae feed on the caterpillar internally, being careful not to do much damage to vital organs. The host will never survive, but the parasitoids must ensure that it stays alive long enough for the brood to reach maturity. Often, the caterpillar will still be alive when the wasp larvae emerge and begin to spin their cocoons and will defend itself and its parasites from potential predators.

Three cocoons showing the doors that the adult wasps chewed their way out of.

In this case, the caterpillar seemed dead. I collected it and took it home with hopes of rearing out the tiny wasps to photograph and identify. In about four days, I came home to find 15-20 adult wasps had emerged.

The adult wasps are extremely tiny, measuring 2-3 mm. In order to have a chance at getting photographs, I placed their enclosure into the refrigerator for a minute or two. The wasps in the accompanying images might appear dead, but they perked up within a couple of minutes. After getting my photographs, I released the brood into my backyard to continue their pest control services.

A Braconid wasp in the genus Cotesia, potentially C. marginiventris.

A couple more looks at this diminutive but effective parasitoid.

Missouri Orchids – Dactylorhiza viridis (Frog Orchid)

It’s been a couple years since I’ve been able to add another new orchid species to my Missouri photography list. I am now down to only two remaining orchids on my list of 36 forms that can be found in the Show-me State.

Although Dactylorhiza viridis has one of the largest global ranges of any orchid species – ranging across Eurasia, Canada and the U.S., it is very uncommon in Missouri and surrounding states. Many thanks to my friends who helped get me on this small population that was within a couple hours drive from St. Louis.

To my knowledge, only three plants have been found in this Dactylorhiza viridis population. As the remnants of last year’s fruiting stalk suggests, they have flowered in the past.

Here are a couple of closeups of the flowers of this interesting little orchid.

Sharp-tailed Grouse of Wisconsin

In mid-April of this year, Casey and I took an exhilarating and unforgettable trip to Wisconsin to photograph Sharp-tailed Grouse. Every morning, my journey began with waking up at 3:00 am, filled with anticipation and excitement for the day ahead. It was an hour’s drive to get to the viewing blind, and arriving 30 minutes prior to first light was crucial, ensuring that we could witness the natural spectacle that was about to unfold.

Early dawn at the lek provides little light. Panning while using a slow shutter speed suggests the rapid motion of the dancing birds.

As the first light of dawn broke through the horizon, the air was filled with the captivating sounds of nature coming to life. The distinct calls and rhythmic dancing of the Sharp-tailed Grouse on the lek echoed through the surroundings, creating an awe-inspiring symphony. The increasing light revealed the beauty of the birds that had already began their intricate dance on the lek, a sight that left an indelible mark on my memory.

A dancing male Sharp-tailed Grouse at Solon Springs Sharptail Barrens.

Each day, we were fortunate to have very good views of the birds on the leks, with up to 17 magnificent creatures, mostly males, gracing the landscape with their presence. The vibrant plumage and graceful movements of the Sharp-tailed Grouse were a testament to the wonders of the natural world, and capturing these moments through my lens was an experience like no other.

I was fortunate to have wonderful light during the golden hours on two of my three days on the leks. Here a male takes a break to survey the dance floor.

I’m sharing some of the thousands of images I made during my three mornings on the leks throughout the post. I was also able to capture some video that showcases the tremendous sights and sounds of the lek activities. I love the variety sounds these birds create. From the percussive slap of their powerful feet on the ground, to the booms, cackles, yelps and snaps of their beaks, there is so much to take in when visiting a lek!

Summary of Conservation of the Sharp-tailed Grouse
Like so many wildlife species, the decline of Sharp-tailed Grouse populations began in the 19th century due to unchecked habitat loss caused by agricultural expansion, logging, and urban development. Unregulated hunting also contributed to population declines as settlers moved westward.

By the early 1900s, conservationists began to recognize the declining populations of Sharp-tailed Grouse and other wildlife species that were found across the landscape. State and federal governments implemented regulations on hunting seasons and bag limits to conserve grouse populations.

These birds would often raise dust and debris while stomping their feet during the dance.

Conservation efforts in the mid to late 1900’s focused on habitat restoration and management. This included reforestation, prescribed burning, and grassland restoration projects aimed at creating suitable habitat for Sharp-tailed Grouse. Scientists conducted research to better understand the habitat requirements, behavior, and population dynamics of the species, which informed conservation strategies. Conservation organizations, government agencies, landowners, and other stakeholders collaborated on conservation initiatives to protect and restore Sharp-tailed Grouse habitat across its range.

The “booming” displays of the Sharp-tailed Grouse are not as loud or impressive as the more famous Prairie Chickens, but they are still an important part of the repertoire on the lek.

More recent conservation initiatives include:

  • Land Protection: Conservation organizations have worked to protect critical habitat through land acquisition and conservation easements.
  • Community Engagement: Conservation efforts increasingly involve local communities through education, outreach, and participation in habitat restoration projects.
  • Monitoring and Management: Continued monitoring of Sharp-tailed Grouse populations helps conservationists assess the effectiveness of conservation efforts and adjust management strategies as needed.
  • Climate Change Considerations: Conservation efforts now take into account the potential impacts of climate change on Sharp-tailed Grouse habitat and populations, with adaptive management strategies being developed to mitigate these impacts.

Although the above mentioned efforts have made significant improvements in the populations of these birds in Wisconsin and other parts of their range, significant challenges remain that could influence the long-term outlook on this species.

  • Fragmentation: Habitat fragmentation remains a significant challenge for Sharp-tailed Grouse conservation, as landscapes become increasingly fragmented due to development and other human activities.
  • Predation and Disease: Predation and disease also pose threats to grouse populations, requiring ongoing management efforts.
  • Socioeconomic Factors: Balancing conservation objectives with the needs and interests of local communities and landowners remains a challenge.

Despite these challenges, ongoing conservation efforts give hope for the continued survival and recovery of grouse populations across their range. By addressing habitat loss, implementing sustainable management practices, and engaging with local communities, conservationists aim to ensure a future where Sharp-tailed Grouse thrive in their natural habitats.

A pair of male Sharp-tailed Grouse stand off on a lek at Solon Springs Sharptail Barrens.

Habitat requirements for Sharp-tailed Grouse
The Sharp-tailed Grouse has specific habitat requirements that are essential for its survival and reproductive success. Understanding these key habitat requirements is crucial for effective conservation and management of the species. Here are the primary habitat requirements for Sharp-tailed Grouse:

  • Native Grasslands and Prairie Habitat: Sharp-tailed Grouse are primarily associated with native grasslands and prairies. These habitats provide the open spaces, diverse vegetation structure, and ground cover necessary for the species’ breeding, nesting, and foraging activities. The presence of native grasses, forbs, and shrubs is important for providing food, cover, and nesting sites.
  • Breeding and Nesting Habitat: During the breeding season, grouse require specific habitat features for courtship displays and nesting. Males perform elaborate courtship displays on traditional dancing grounds, known as leks, to attract females. The presence of suitable lekking sites with short, sparse vegetation and clear visibility is critical for successful breeding behaviors. Females seek out areas with dense grass cover and sufficient concealment for nesting, typically selecting sites with tall, dense grasses for nesting cover.
  • Foraging Habitat: Sharp-tailed Grouse forage on a variety of plant materials, including seeds, insects, and forbs. High-quality foraging habitat consists of diverse plant species that provide a range of food resources throughout the year. Forbs, grass seeds, and insect-rich areas within the grassland habitat are important for meeting the species’ dietary needs.
  • Adequate Space and Connectivity: The availability of large, contiguous expanses of suitable habitat is important for grouse. Connectivity between different habitat patches allows for movement, dispersal, and genetic exchange among populations. Fragmentation and isolation of habitat patches can limit the species’ ability to access resources and can increase vulnerability to environmental pressures.
  • Disturbance and Predator Management: Sharp-tailed Grouse benefit from habitat that is managed to minimize disturbances and reduce predator impacts. Controlled grazing, prescribed burning, and habitat management practices that create a mosaic of different vegetation types can provide a balance of cover and foraging opportunities while reducing predation risks.
  • Seasonal Habitat Needs: The species requires habitat that meets its seasonal needs, including suitable wintering areas with access to food and cover during the colder months. Additionally, habitat that provides protection from extreme weather conditions, such as snow and wind, is important for the species’ survival.

Understanding and addressing these key habitat requirements is essential for the conservation and management of Sharp-tailed Grouse populations. Conservation efforts that focus on preserving and enhancing native grassland and prairie habitats, maintaining habitat connectivity, and implementing sustainable land management practices play a critical role in meeting the species’ habitat needs.

Beautiful, though short-lived morning colors filled the sky at sunrise during my morning at Crex Meadows State Wildlife Refuge.

About our Wisconsin Setting
I was fortunate to be able to visit leks at two different locations in northwestern Wisconsin. Many thanks to the organizations who manage these areas and helped us a lot by providing viewing blinds and giving me information on where to find these leks!

A male showing his purple skin patches during his courtship displays on the lek.

Solon Springs Sharptail Barrens
Before European settlers arrived in the area, the Solon Springs region was inhabited by indigenous peoples, primarily members of the Ojibwe (Chippewa) and Dakota Sioux tribes. These Native American communities lived in harmony with the land, utilizing its resources for sustenance, shelter, and cultural practices. The barrens likely played a role in their seasonal hunting, gathering, and ceremonial activities.

A male Sharp-tailed Grouse in mid-boom during his courtship display at Solon Springs Sharptail Barrens.

European exploration of the Great Lakes region brought French fur traders and explorers into the area in the 17th and 18th centuries. The dense forests and expansive wetlands of northwestern Wisconsin presented challenges to early settlers, but as the fur trade expanded, trading posts and small settlements began to emerge.

By the mid-19th century, the timber industry became the dominant economic force in the region. The vast forests of white and red pine attracted lumber companies, leading to extensive logging operations throughout northwestern Wisconsin. The Solon Springs area was no exception, and its forests were heavily exploited for timber to meet the growing demand for lumber in rapidly developing urban centers.

Males would often take very short flights to reach potentially better areas of the lek.

As logging operations expanded, concerns about deforestation and its environmental impacts grew. Conservation movements began to gain momentum in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, leading to the establishment of forest reserves and parks to protect natural areas. In 1927, the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources (DNR) designated the Solon Springs Sharptail Barrens as a State Natural Area, recognizing its unique ecological significance and the need for preservation.

The Solon Springs Sharptail Barrens are characterized by a unique mix of grasslands, shrublands, and scattered pine and oak forests. This mosaic of habitats supports a diverse array of plant and animal species, including the iconic Sharp-tailed Grouse, which relies on the barrens for breeding and foraging habitat. Other species found in the area include various grassland birds, mammals, reptiles, and insects, making it a hotspot of biodiversity in the region.

A male poses for a portrait during the morning festivities.

In addition to its ecological importance, the Solon Springs Sharptail Barrens attract outdoor enthusiasts seeking opportunities for hiking, birdwatching, photography, and nature appreciation. The Wisconsin DNR manages the area to balance conservation goals with compatible recreational activities, ensuring that visitors can experience and enjoy the natural beauty of the barrens while minimizing human impacts on sensitive habitats.

Despite its protected status, the Solon Springs Sharptail Barrens face ongoing threats from factors such as habitat fragmentation, invasive species, and climate change. Conservation efforts continue to focus on maintaining and restoring the ecological integrity of the area through habitat management, invasive species control, and scientific research. Public education and outreach also play a crucial role in raising awareness about the importance of preserving this unique natural treasure for future generations to enjoy.

Although apparently primarily for the females’ benefit, the males look rather fierce and potentially intimidating to me.

Crex Meadows State Wildlife Refuge
The land that is now Crex Meadows has a long history of human habitation, with Native American tribes, including the Ojibwe, Potawatomi, and Dakota, using the area for hunting, fishing, and gathering.

In the early 20th century, the Crex Carpet Company began purchasing land in the area for peat extraction to produce carpets. However, the company eventually abandoned its plans, leaving behind large tracts of abandoned land. During the Great Depression, efforts to revitalize the local economy led to the establishment of the Crex Meadows Wildlife Area in 1937 by the Federal Emergency Relief Administration (FERA) and the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC).

In addition to the grouse, Crex Meadows supports many other species of birds, including Sandhill Cranes, Trumpeter Swans and dozens of waterfowl species. It is high on my list for wanting to make a return visit!

The CCC played a crucial role in the development of Crex Meadows, constructing roads, trails, dikes, and water control structures to manage the wetland habitat for wildlife. Over the years, the refuge expanded through land acquisitions and partnerships with conservation organizations. Today, it encompasses over 30,000 acres of diverse habitats, including marshes, flowages, forests, and grasslands.

A displaying male on what might be the most popular lek at Crex Meadows.

Crex Meadows is renowned for its wildlife management programs, which aim to conserve and enhance habitat for a wide variety of species, including waterfowl, shorebirds, songbirds, mammals, and reptiles. The refuge is also a hub for research and education, hosting numerous studies on wetland ecology, migratory bird patterns, and habitat management techniques. Educational programs and guided tours offer visitors the opportunity to learn about the area’s natural history and conservation efforts.

A brighter future for Sharp-tailed Grouse in Wisconsin?
While specific population trend data for Sharp-tailed Grouse in Wisconsin may vary by region and over time, conservation efforts have aimed to address habitat needs, reduce threats, and support the recovery of the species. Habitat restoration projects, collaborative partnerships, and sustainable land management practices have been implemented to enhance and protect suitable habitat for grouse in the state.

Given the complex and dynamic nature of population trends, ongoing monitoring and adaptive management remain essential for understanding and addressing the conservation needs of grouse in Wisconsin. By integrating scientific research, policy interventions, and community involvement, conservationists aim to ensure the long-term viability of Sharp-tailed Grouse populations.

Males would typically get a little lazy when it was apparent females were not on the dance floor. Here a couple of males are just waiting for a reason… 😉

Collaborative partnerships have played a crucial role in advancing Sharp-tailed Grouse conservation efforts in Wisconsin. These partnerships have involved government agencies, non-profit organizations, private landowners, and local communities working together to address habitat needs, implement conservation initiatives, and engage stakeholders in the conservation of the species. Here are some examples of successful collaborative partnerships for grouse conservation in Wisconsin:

  • Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources (WDNR) and Non-profit Organizations: The WDNR has collaborated with non-profit conservation organizations, such as The Nature Conservancy, Pheasants Forever, and local land trusts, to implement habitat restoration projects, land acquisitions, and conservation easements aimed at protecting and enhancing Sharp-tailed Grouse habitat. These partnerships have leveraged funding, technical expertise, and community engagement to support conservation actions.
  • Private Landowner Conservation Agreements: Collaborative partnerships between private landowners and conservation organizations have resulted in the establishment of conservation agreements to protect and manage critical grouse habitat on private lands. These agreements may include voluntary conservation easements, habitat management plans, and financial incentives to support landowners in implementing habitat-friendly land management practices.
  • University Research Collaborations: Collaborative partnerships between academic institutions and wildlife management agencies have facilitated research studies and monitoring efforts focused on Sharp-tailed Grouse populations and habitat. These partnerships have contributed to the generation of scientific knowledge, data collection, and the development of evidence-based conservation strategies.
  • Community-Based Conservation Coalitions: Local conservation coalitions and grassroots organizations have formed partnerships with landowners, hunters, and community members to promote grouse conservation at the grassroots level. These coalitions often engage in habitat restoration projects, educational outreach, and collaborative monitoring efforts, fostering a sense of shared stewardship and local support for conservation actions.
  • Working Lands for Wildlife (WLFW) Partnerships: The WLFW program, in collaboration with federal and state agencies, has engaged private landowners and agricultural producers in Wisconsin to implement habitat-friendly agricultural practices that benefit grouse and other wildlife species. These partnerships have provided technical and financial assistance to landowners for implementing conservation practices on working agricultural lands.
    • As an aside, I have had experience in WLFW in the St. Louis area during my career at Monsanto/Bayer. I can attest that this program can add valuable habitat using “unused” corporate lands for the benefit of floral and faunal communities.

These examples illustrate the diverse and impactful collaborative partnerships that have been instrumental in advancing Sharp-tailed Grouse conservation in Wisconsin. By fostering collaboration, leveraging resources, and engaging stakeholders, these partnerships have contributed to the protection and enhancement of critical habitat, the implementation of sustainable land management practices, and the promotion of community involvement in conservation efforts.

When not displaying, male and female Sharp-tailed Grouse can be very difficult to discern. This is one of the few photos I was able to get of a certain female as they would usually only make short appearances on the lek.

From materials I browsed from the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources and seeing first-hand the excellent management practices ongoing at Solon Springs Sharptail Barrens and Crex Meadows State Wildlife Refuge, it seems the population of Sharp-tailed Grouse is currently in good hands in the Badger State.

Hopefully management and policy decisions continue to support the Sharp-tailed Grouse in Wisconsin for decades to come!

Hopefully you have enjoyed a look at some of my experiences during three days on the lek with these fantastic chickens. Thanks so much to Casey Galvin for doing most of the planning for this adventure. Thank you also to Lauren Thomas of the Wisconsin DNR for helping me identify a lek at Crex Meadows on very short notice. Finally, thanks so much to my darling wife Sarah, for taking care of some of my responsibilities around the house while I was away on this trip!

-OZB


Three Lesser Known Shut-ins of the St. Francois River Watershed

Anyone with a bit of knowledge about the St. Francois River of southeastern Missouri has probably heard of or has even visited the well-known stretch of the Tiemann Shut-ins that create the great series of class 1-3 rapids that experienced kayakers long to ride. The stretch of this river between Millstream Gardens and Silver Mines Recreational Area is one of the most scenic and biodiverse areas of the Show-Me State.

This spring I was turned on to three new-to-me shut-ins in the St. Francois watershed that I should have visited long ago. At first, it was surprising to me that these three geological features are not more well known. However, once I found out a little of the difficulty of getting to these locations, I am now not surprised at all.

Looking up Turkey Creek

The St. Francois Watershed
The geological history of the St. Francois River watershed is a tale written in stone, shaped over millions of years by dynamic processes. At its core lies the ancient Ozark Plateau, characterized by its resilient dolomite and limestone bedrock, remnants of a bygone era when shallow seas covered the region. Erosion and uplift sculpted the landscape, carving out rugged hills, steep bluffs, and winding valleys that define the watershed’s topography today.

Upper Stouts Creek Shut-ins

Within the embrace of the St. Francois River watershed thrives a rich tapestry of ecological diversity, harboring a multitude of habitats that support an abundance of plant and animal life. The forested slopes of the Ozarks provide refuge for a myriad of tree species, from towering oaks and hickories to delicate dogwoods and redbuds. Beneath the canopy, a lush understory of ferns, wildflowers, and mosses carpet the forest floor, while clear, spring-fed streams meander through the landscape, sustaining populations of freshwater mussels, fish, and amphibians.

The traveler to the shut-ins of the St. Francois River watershed should always be on the lookout for cottonmouths.

The river itself serves as a lifeline for countless species, offering vital habitat and nourishment along its meandering course. From the elusive Ozark hellbender to the Bald Eagle, the St. Francois River watershed supports a diverse array of wildlife, including many species of conservation concern. Endemic flora and fauna, such as the Ozark chinquapin and the Hine’s emerald dragonfly, find sanctuary within the watershed, highlighting its importance as a stronghold for biodiversity.

About Missouri’s Shut-ins
Shut-ins are a testament to the enduring forces of nature. Formed over many thousands of years, these unique rock formations are the result of a complex interplay between water erosion and geological upheaval. The shut-ins, characterized by narrow channels and cascading waterfalls, are formed when swiftly flowing streams encounter resistant igneous bedrock, creating natural barriers that redirect the flow and sculpting the surrounding landscape into breathtaking formations.

Humidity in these creek beds is usually very high, creating fog and haze. Turkey Creek Shut-ins.

Beyond their stunning beauty, shut-ins are also home to a diverse array of flora and fauna. The cool, clear waters of the shut-ins provide a habitat for various aquatic species, including aquatic invertebrates, freshwater mussels and fish. Along the rocky banks, towering hardwood forests thrive, offering refuge to an abundance of wildlife, from songbirds to white-tailed deer. The unique microclimate created by the shut-ins supports a rich tapestry of plant life, including rare species adapted to the harsh conditions of the rocky terrain.

Upper Stouts Creek Shut-ins
One of the main feeding branches of the St. Francois River, Stouts Creek contains a number of picturesque shut-ins. Casey and I had noted this particular one driving by for years but had never made the stop. We had to trespass a little to get our shots, but the folks who own this property are, theoretically at least, supposed to be inclined to forgive those who trespass. We spent just a few minutes here and were in and out without incident.

Upper Stouts Creek Shut-ins

Turkey Creek Shut-ins
Flowing from the north, Turkey Creek empties its contents into the east side of the St. Francois River, just upriver from the historic Silvermines Dam. Getting to the Turkey Creek Shut-ins requires either a treacherous hike along the creek from the confluence, or a slightly less arduous bushwhack up and over a highland to the sight of the more picturesque parts of the shut-ins. Taking the easier way means missing portions of the shut-ins but will also result in fewer potential run-ins with cottonmouth snakes and ankle-snapping rocks.

Turkey Creek Shut-ins
Swimming holes abound in shut-ins like these at Turkey Creek.
Turkey Creek Shut-ins

Mud Creek Shut-ins
Mud Creek Shut-ins are definitely one of the most memorable shut-ins that I have had the pleasure to visit – not only because of their classic St. Francois Mountain beauty, but due to my story in reaching them. As is the case with Turkey Creek Shut-ins, these shut-ins can be reached by paddling the St. Francois River. However, I doubt my kayak skills would service safe passage across the class-3 rapids of this stretch of the river, especially while carrying expensive camera gear.

Moving upstream along Mud Creek from its confluence with the St. Francois, one first gets to view this very nice waterfall.

The next best option? Footing it across. I began this trek from the parking lot of the Silvermines Recreational Area. In times of high water, the low footbridge across the St. Francois River can be underwater, so I recommend parking on the north side of the river and paying the ridiculous $5.00 to park your car for a few hours.

The water finds multiple pathways against the rock as the creek races down the ravine.

From the parking area, I took the “trail” that runs upstream along the north side of the river until I got to the namesake mines. From here, it was steep climbing until I eventually ran into an old two-track that allowed for some switch-backing until I eventually rose from the river’s ravine into a more upland forest. Although the topology here was more manageable, fallen trees were everywhere, presumably from strong storms of recent years. The bushwhacking got frustrating, especially with the need to eat a spider or two every five to ten steps! Using my GPS, I kept the river to my right side and generally headed to the northeast to where Mud Creek meets the St. Francois. I should have headed much further to the north, but I kept finding myself heading back into the boulder-strewn ravine of the river. Eventually, I learned my lesson and rose to the highest elevation possible and made a direct line to where the GPS told me the confluence would be. Finally arriving, I realized I was then facing the hurdle of heading back down the ravine to the confluence. I could hear rushing water from the east and the north, shut-ins along the river and creek, respectively. I chose my point to descend into the ravine, not knowing if this would take me to sheer cliffs that would force me back up to try again. I eventually stumbled into the relatively small river bank that was thick with twenty foot tall alder and witch-hazel thickets.

Mud Creek Shut-ins

Clearing these thickets, with water halfway up my wellies (I got my first pair of Gumleaf boots recently, so I can no longer call these muck boots), I was finally able to see the confluence. Navigating around huge boulders, I began clambering up Mud Creek and almost immediately came upon the nicest waterfall of these shut-ins. About this time, the sky began to darken. Most of my trek to this point was in mostly sunny skies, making me wonder if the overcast skies forecasted for this afternoon where ever going to happen. Now I was hearing thunder and watching dark skies closing in quickly from the west.

Porphyry and swirls

I realized I probably had limited rain-free time with the shut-ins so I got to work, moving myself and my gear from one point of interest to the next upstream. This type of landscape photography is not for the faint of heart! Due to the sharp sides of the ravine, I was forced to cross the creek several times, negotiating deep pools, fast-moving water and slippery rocks. On several occasions, I used my tripod as an extra set of legs, helping me stabilize myself while crossing the creek.

Mudd Creek Shut-ins

Getting about a half mile upstream from the confluence, the shut-ins widened, opening up to large sections of exposed granite. It was around here that I decided the storm was not going to pass me by, but come right down on me. The thunder was getting closer and more frequent. I put my camera bodies and lenses into individual Ziplock bags and put the rain cover over my bag just when the sky opened up with torrential rains. It was then that I realized I was on the wrong side of the creek to get back to where I needed to be. I also sensed the waters in Mud Creek were starting to rise. The opposite side of the creek this far upstream looked like near-vertical cliffs, but I knew I probably did not have time to head back downstream to a point where I made the crossing earlier. I found the closet point to make a relatively safe crossing and found myself with just a few feet between the steep rise of the ravine and the creek that seemed to be increasing inch by inch. I found some handholds and started climbing. Spiders be damned!

St. Francois Mountain Beauty!

I climbed as carefully as possible, making progress while the rain came down in sheets and lighting danced across the sky directly above me. In five to ten minutes I made it up the approximately 400 feet of increased elevation and reached the top of the ravine. Not liking the idea of clambering down the opposite side of the ravine to get back to the mines, I decided a better route back would be to stay in the uplands and head north to Highway D to get back to my car. That was another two-mile bushwhack, back through the fallen trees, my wellies filling up with rain water, and limited visibility. I eventually made it to the road, finding my way safely back to my car. Not wanting to ruin my seat with my soaking wet cloths and not having a dry change of cloths, I striped to my boxer-briefs, put a towel down on my seat and drove the two-hours home. Thankfully I did nothing to raise the attention of any authorities on the way. 😉

I’d Like to thank Casey Galvin, Kathy Bildner and midwesthiker.com for the information that helped me reach these fantastic locations!

Allegheny Spurge (Pachysandra procumbens)

Pachysandra procumbens (Family Buxaceae), commonly known as Allegheny spurge or mountain pachysandra, is a species of flowering plant native to the southeastern United States. Many thanks to Pete, who turned us on to this small group of plants that was found in Forest Park in St. Louis City. Not native to this region, this was obviously planted there at some point.

A newly emerging inflorescence of Pachysandra procumbens.

Pachysandra procumbens has a delicate and unique appearance. Its leaves are larger and serrated, with a distinct purple-bronze coloration in the spring that matures to a glossy green throughout the growing season.

A prime inflorescence of Pachysandra procumbens against a backdrop of its leaves.

In the spring, Pachysandra procumbens produces small, white, bottlebrush-like flowers that are highly attractive to pollinators such as bees and butterflies. These flowers give way to small, berry-like fruits that add further interest. This plant prefers moist, well-drained soil and is partial to full shade. The inflorescence are small, but definitely worth a close look.

From the Garden – Manfreda virginica (False Aloe)

During the first couple of seasons in our front-yard wildflower garden, the deer took a liking to this Manfreda virginica (F. Asparagaceae). This prompted me to start spraying its foliage with deer deterrent last year. This had the desired effect and I was happy to see and photograph the blooms of this plant, which are primarily pollinated by large moths such as the sphinx moths. The blooms will also be visited by Ruby-throated Hummingbirds.

Inflorescence of Manfreda virginica.

This species is typically found in dry, rocky and alkali soils, so I was not sure how it would like the clay pan in our yard. I’m happy to say that it is putting on new leaves this spring. I’ve lost a few plants in the garden during the past winter and I’m glad to see this one coming back.

Closeup of individual bloom of Manfreda virginica.

More Wild Turkey

I’ve had a little more luck recently with the Wild Turkeys in the neighborhood woods patch. During my last couple of session, the hens in this group have roosted immediately above the patch of ground I cleared of bush honeysuckle. Previously, they roosted in trees a quarter mile up the hollow. This is problematic because I haven’t been able to set up quietly enough not to flush them. I was able to call in a few of the Toms, although this is hit or miss. They love hanging out and strutting in the backyards of the streets that border the hollow. We call back and forth and they are obviously trying to get me to come to them. Finally, on this occasion, they couldn’t stand it so came in to find the hen (me) that was sounding so pretty. They did not come all the way into my prime shooting lane, but I made the best I could of it.

A couple of Toms looking for love.

I have read and am beginning to learn how keen their sense really are. I need to be careful with calling as they come in. When they enter the area, they tend to ignore the decoys altogether and instead look directly in my direction. They know precisely where the calls emanate. Turkey hunters will often call at the location they wish the birds to appear and when they hear the Toms coming, they move into their shooting position. This is kind of hard to do when using a bag blind and where the birds can see a long distance. The small geography I am working in has some limitations.

With the county’s colors boldly displayed, I think the Wild Turkey would have been a great national bird.
The snood (the dangling appendage that is overhanging this bird’s beak) is quite interesting. Until watching these guys recently, I was not aware of what control they had over it. When excited and wanting to display, they fill it with blood and it can turn a bright red.
When the birds are more alert and not displaying, the snood is kept erect like a horn as seen here. The transition takes only seconds.